Bringing Home Your Foster
Thank you for taking an animal who needs you into your home. With every animal you take into your care we ask that you remember the following:
As animal lovers like you know, any animal that comes into your home can pose a risk to people, animals, and your property.
You are taking an animal out of a situation they may find stressful in the shelter and into a calm home environment. It may take days, or even weeks, for your foster to decompress and begin to feel comfortable in a new environment.
To successfully introduce a new animal into your household, plan ahead and be patient. Learn more with specific tips for making the process easier.
Minimize Risks for You and Your Foster
Moving to a foster home is a big transition. Your foster animal may respond to situations differently than in a shelter environment and sometimes these responses can be unpredictable.
Foster families, members of the household, or visitors could be injured by a foster animal. While it is rare, people in your home could contract a disease and/or parasite from a foster animal. We never send out animals with known transmissible diseases without the consent of a foster parent who is prepared to address the particular medical condition.
Resident animals can also contract a disease and/or parasite from a foster animal. Any St. Hubert’s animal with a known disease or parasite will be treated accordingly by our medical team and will not be placed in foster care without the foster’s permission.
Please note that St. Hubert’s does not routinely test for FIV/FeLV, and introducing a foster cat/kitten to your resident cat is at your own risk.
As a precaution, we always recommend you tell your vet you will be fostering an animal from a shelter environment to determine the best care plan for your resident animals. It is also good practice to keep resident animals separate from fosters for at least the first week in the event your foster breaks out with any communicable diseases--such as a cold--that were not evident in the shelter.
Resident animals, as well as animals outside your home, could be injured by a foster animal. However, you can almost always prevent problems if you follow the guidelines recommended by St. Hubert’s. For tips, check out our protocol for introducing foster and resident animals.
St. Hubert’s never knowingly sends aggressive or dangerous animals into foster homes. Our behavior team conducts evaluations before determining that an animal is safe to go into a home. Additionally, our foster team does everything in our power to set animals and fosters up in a successful environment by providing pertinent information and support to help fosters and their animals succeed.
However, moving is a big transition and an animal’s behavior in the shelter does not always correlate with their behavior in foster care. Therefore, foster parents should remember that all animals can bite, which is when teeth cause punctures that break the skin. If a bite occurs involving a St. Hubert’s foster animal, please follow these instructions.
Preparing Your Home for Your Foster Pet
Animals can and will do the most unlikely things, so it is important to prepare your home before you bring a foster pet in. Also, make sure your resident animal’s vaccinations are up to date!
Dog Proofing
Walk into the room that you plan to use to house your foster dog, and ask yourself:
Is there room for the crate (dog’s safe place)? A crate is not a place of punishment, but a safe haven for your pet. Be sure to put it in a quiet, low traffic part of the room. Put a bed or blankets in the crate so it’s a comfortable place for your pet to rest.
Is there quick access to the outside for bathroom breaks?
Is there anything that can be chewed, such as drapes, couch, rugs, shoes, etc.? If there is anything of value within reach of the pup, move it. Chances are that will be the first thing that they chew on.
Are there exposed electrical wires? Use zip ties or duct tape to make them inaccessible for chewing.
Is there anywhere the dog can hide? Will you be able to get the dog out if hidden? Block off areas where the pet can hide out of your reach. Feeling safe is important, but getting stuck behind furniture is not helpful to you or your pet.
Are there coffee tables with objects that can be knocked off by a wagging tail? Removing knick-knacks and “nice things” from the room is always a good plan.
Are there plants in the room? Plants should be kept out of reach. Even plants that are non-toxic can make your dog vomit after eating them.
How will I clean the floors? Carpets are hard to keep clean with little ones or messy animals, an ideal space should have hard wood, laminate, tile or concrete flooring. Putting a tarp down is always recommended, regardless of what type of floors you have.
Can they get into the cabinets or closets? We keep many poisonous and dangerous items under the sink and valuable items in closets. Out of sight, out of mind does not apply to animals! If there is a way in, they will find it.
Cat Proofing
Walk into the room that you plan to use to house your foster cat, and ask yourself:
Where will I keep the litter box so that the cat can access it and it will be easy to clean? Keep the litter box away from the food and water bowls as cats don’t like to eat and potty in the same place; can you blame them?!
Is there anything that can be chewed, such as electrical cords or plants? Cats are curious and will chew on most anything. They can also jump five times their height, so putting things up isn’t really an option.
Is there anything that can be knocked off and broken, such as knickknacks or dishes? To guarantee the safety of your treasured items, remove them from the room.
Is there anything that can be ruined if it is scratched or climbed on? Move or cover these items while your foster is in your home.
Is there anywhere the cat can hide? Will you be able to get the cat out if hidden? ( under cabinets, behind the washer and dryer, etc.) Blocking off areas where a cat can hide out of your reach will save you and your foster cat a lot of stress in the long run.
Is the room peaceful and quiet? Cats need human companionship, but they also need periods of peace and quiet.
How will I clean the floors? Carpets are hard to keep clean with little ones or messy animals; an ideal space should have hard wood, laminate, tile or concrete flooring. Putting a tarp down is always recommended, regardless of what type of floors you have.
Can the get into the cabinets or closets? We keep many poisonous and dangerous items under the sink and valuable items in closets. Out of sight, out of mind does not apply to animals! If there is a way in, they will find it.
Window dressings? Blinds and drapes will be climbed.
Hazardous Household Items
Outside Hazards
Antifreeze that contains ethylene glycol has a sweet taste that attracts animals but is deadly if consumed in even small quantities; one teaspoon can kill a seven-pound cat. Look for antifreeze that contains propylene glycol, which is safe for animals if ingested in small amounts. Ethylene glycol can also be found in common household products like snow globes, so be sure to keep these things out the reach of animals.
Cocoa mulch contains ingredients that can be deadly to pets if ingested. The mulch, sold in garden supply stores, has a chocolate scent that is appetizing to some animals.
Chemicals used on lawns and gardens, such as fertilizer and plant food, can be easily accessible and fatal to a pet allowed in the yard unsupervised.
De-icing salts used to melt snow and ice are paw irritants that can be poisonous if licked off. Paws should be washed and dried as soon as the animal comes in from the snow.
Cans and garbage can pose a danger when cats or smaller dogs attempt to lick food from a disposed can, sometimes getting their head caught inside the can. To be sure this doesn't happen; squeeze the open end of the can closed before disposing.
Traps and poisons. Pest control companies frequently use glue traps, live traps and poisons to kill rodents. Even if you would never use such methods to eliminate rodents, your neighbor might. Dogs and cats can be poisoned if they eat a rodent who has been killed by poison (called secondary poisoning).
Yard/Fence – if you have a fenced-in yard, check to be sure there are no holes in the fencing. Do not leave your foster dog in the yard without supervision. Keep him/her on a leash outside, even in a fenced-in yard.
Indoor Hazards
Insect control products, such as the insecticides used in many over-the-counter flea and tick remedies, may be toxic to companion animals. Prescription flea and tick control products are much safer and more effective.
Human medications such as pain killers (including aspirin, acetaminophen, and ibuprofen), cold medicines, anti-cancer drugs, anti-depressants, vitamins, and diet pills can all be toxic to animals.
Poisonous household plants include azalea, dieffenbachia (dumb cane), lilies (extremely toxic,) mistletoe, poinsettia, and philodendron, among others.
String, yarn, rubber bands, and even dental floss are easy to swallow and can cause intestinal blockages or strangulation.
Toys with movable parts—like squeaky toys or stuffed animals with plastic eyes—can pose a choking hazard to animals. Take the same precautions with pets as you would with a small child.
Rawhide dog chews may be contaminated with Salmonella, which can infect pets and humans who come in contact with the chews.
Holiday decorations and lights pose a risk to cats and dogs. Keep these items out of the reach of animals, and if possible, confine your pet to an undecorated area while you are out of the home.
Kitchen Dangers
Chocolate is poisonous to dogs, cats, and ferrets.
Alcoholic beverages, Hops (used in home beer brewing)
Apple seeds, Apricot pits, Cherry pits, Grapes, Peach pits, Raisins
Avocados, Onions and Onion Powder
Candy (particularly chocolate, which is toxic to dogs, cats and ferrets, and any candy or peanut butter containing the sweetener Xylitol)
Coffee (grounds, beans, chocolate-covered espresso beans), Tea (caffeine)
Macadamia nuts, Walnuts
Mushroom plants. Mustard seeds
Potato and Tomato leaves and stems (green parts). Rhubarb leaves
Yeast, dough, and salt
Fumes from nonstick cooking surfaces and self-cleaning ovens
Leftovers such as chicken bones easily shatter and can choke a cat or dog.
Settling In With Your New Foster
The First 48 Hours
You are taking an animal out of the stressful shelter environment and into a calm home. It may take days, or even weeks, for your foster animal to decompress and begin to feel comfortable in their new environment.
Time and patience are what your foster animal needs most in the first few days. Except in instances of aggressive behavior, please give your foster animal at least 48 hours to settle in so you can get a better sense of their personality. You are always welcome to reach out to the foster team if you need guidance or have any concerns.
The First Week
It's helpful to create a plan to help your foster settle in. The following guidelines can help you make the transition as seamless as possible.
Establish a Routine
Animals crave predictability. Stick to the same times when feeding, walking, training, and departing your home. Click here for guidance on house training and crate training.
Provide a Private Spot for your Foster
Animals, like people, need time to themselves. If you're fostering a dog, create a spot with a crate and/or mat that is the equivalent of a person’s bedroom so that they can get away and relax.
If you're fostering a cat, we recommend confining them to a bathroom or bedroom when you first get home. This gives them a chance to decompress and locate their litterbox. After a couple of days, slowly introduce them to the rest of your house, room by room, making sure they always know where to find a litterbox. Give them plenty of places to perch and observe the activity in your house, as well as a bed or box where they can escape.
Limit New Interactions
In the beginning, keep your new foster animal's world relatively small with positive, controlled interactions. They're learning the routine and building a relationship with you. However, your friends, extended family, and neighbors are still strangers in the beginning, so please refrain from introductions with them in the first week.
Let your foster animal explore slowly, incorporating more territory gradually. Keep in mind that your foster may have never seen common household items, so it’s better to proceed cautiously since it’s much harder to “undo” a negative association.
Build positive associations by feeding your foster animal yummy food after she notices an novel object of concern such as a stroller, vacuum cleaner, or another dog. Remember that even “looking” is a behavior and reward your foster with a delicious treat just for looking at new people, places, or things.
Begin Positive Reinforcement Training
Begin training exercises early to help establish a good relationship and communication with your foster animal. This will also help your foster learn in a home setting. Keep your training sessions short, about 5 minutes, a few times throughout the day. If your foster animal is working on losing weight, you can always shift some of their daily meal calories to training sessions. Marker or “clicker” training is the fastest, clearest way to establish communication.
Introduce Resident Animals Properly to Minimize Stress
It is ok to keep your foster animal and resident pet separate and never have them meet. Before your foster meets other animals, check out our tips for successful introductions. Remember that many animals like certain animals and not others. After all, do you like everyone you meet? Many dogs also find leash greetings uncomfortable, so limit or avoid these greetings until you learn more about your foster’s stress signals.
Body Language & Positive Associations
Since animals communicate with the slightest of body movements, you’ll need to learn your foster’s body language. What do their ears look like? What does their mouth do? What about the tail position? What is the demeanor of their entire body? Departures from typical or calm behaviors mean your foster animal is concerned.
Make positive associations with what concerns your foster by using food. Feed treats immediately after your foster animal sees something of concern, often called a trigger. Trigger > your foster looks > feed. This sequence is crucial.
Also, it's helpful to distance your foster from any triggers while creating positive associations. You can slowly decrease the distance between the foster animal and the trigger as your foster becomes comfortable. Continue the training sequence as you decrease the distance to the trigger.
Let your Foster Initiate Interaction
Never force an interaction between your foster and a new person. Remember that many animals—like people—don't enjoy strangers touching them. Provide a “stranger” with tasty treats for introductions. Let the person gently toss a treat to your foster. The person can then simply leave a hand extended for your foster to investigate. If your foster solicits attention, the person can gently pet your foster dog on the chest or allow the foster cat to give a head bunt. Even when a foster animal solicits attention from a new person, it's always best to proceed slowly.
Seek Help & Ask Questions
We want to support you and your foster animal so please don’t hesitate to reach out to the foster team. We can provide you with many helpful training resources. Like anything else, there’s a lot of information on the internet. However much of what you find online is contrary to the science of learning. Some animal behavior web sites promote punishment-based training techniques, which may suppress some behaviors temporarily, but will not fix the underlying cause. In the end, these techniques may make the behavior worse in the long-run. Instead, we want to make sure our training reinforces behaviors you like from your foster animal. Tell your foster what pays! For example, reinforce four-paws-on-floor if your dog likes to jump on people. Train alternative behaviors to replace undesirable ones. Otherwise, your foster animal will continue to do what makes sense or comes naturally.
Have Fun
Part of what makes fostering fun is being able to play and bond with an animal. Playing fetch or taking a foster dog on a long walk is enjoyable and can help burn off nervous energy. Playing chase with laser pointers or puzzle toys can help a foster cat adjust to a new environment.
Playing, feeding, and interacting with your new foster builds a bond. Take it easy in the beginning and get to know each other. Once you've built a good relationship with your foster, you can start to bring others into their life.
